The brilliant thing about coffee is that taste isn’t only determined by the brewing method, but variations in that method, too. For those who love to experiment to extract the best out of each type of bean, the WPM KD-310VPS may well deliver the perfect cup of coffee.

Coming with a fairly hefty price tag, the WPM KD-310VPS is an exceptionally well built machine, offering the greatest customisation options of any coffee machine I’ve tested. Possibly a step too far for the majority, those enamoured with the art of making coffee will love this machine.

WPM KD-310VPS design – Like a steampunk dream

All dials, levers and gauges, the WPM KD-310VPS  would look at home in a steampunk film. Finished in stainless steel, this is one of the best-looking coffee machines around – and one that makes a statement.

The one you see in the pictures here comes sporting the upgrade kit, featuring wooden handles and a group handle with an open basket, rather than spouts. The regular kit has black handles and a traditional group handle with spouts.

Looking every bit like its high-end price would suggest, the WPM KD-310VPS isn’t actually as big as you’d think. Sure, it’s quite tall, but it isn’t that wide nor deep (460 x 280 x 425mm), so will happily find a place on most kitchen counter-tops.

A flap at the top, behind the warming rack, lifts up to reveal the 2-litre water tank. This can be removed for easy filling, but you can also leave it in-situ and fill with a jug.

Beneath the flap you’ll find storage space for the professional-sized 58mm filter baskets (single and double-shot), the cleaning disc and the steam wand nozzle cleaner. You get single-walled filters only, so it’s essential that you pair this coffee machine with a good grinder.

There are simple controls for single- and double-shots of espresso, plus you can use the handle to do the job manually. There are dials for steam and hot water, too. This machine comes with three thermoblock heaters inside, one each for steam, hot water and the espresso machine.

There’s also a dial that indicates current pressure, and an LCD screen that lets you change some of the settings, as well as displaying a pour count.

WPM KD-310VPS features – More options than on any other coffee machine

The WPM KD-310VPS is built for customisation. When you start an espresso pour, you can use the buttons on the front to adjust the pressure mid-flow, providing fine control over the final shot of espresso. You can use the screen to change the water temperature, too, with the default at 92ºC.

Hook up the machine to your phone via Bluetooth and the real fun begins. From the app you can programme up to four stages, setting the pressure level and duration for each. This allows you to customise the pour and infusion times for different types of coffee. Profiles can be saved for later use, and you can even add a photo to help you remember what the profile was for.

Needless to say, this is insanely complicated, offering a level of detail that most people won’t want to bother about. This really is a machine built for coffee fans who love to experiment.

Not that you have to use the WPM KD-310VPS in that way. You can quite happily configure overall pressure and infusion settings, and set a temperature, and then programme the dispensing volumes. This is a good place to start, mastering the machine at its simplest before diving in to customise all options.

WPM KD-310VPS coffee quality – The results are exceptional

Needless to say, the WPM KD-310VPS produces some of the best coffee ever. Starting out with my fairtrade Peruvian coffee, it took a few goes to get the grind and tamp right. With this achieved, I got an excellent shot of espresso – topped with a thick and rich crema that lasted a long time, this is how coffee should look.

Taste-wise, too, it was spot on. On display was the strong acidity this coffee offers, with a hint of bitterness, but with a smooth overall taste. And, it was delivered at 63ºC, which is bang on, too.

Moving to Australian Skybury, I brewed at a slightly lower temperature. The resulting drink delivered for sweetness and smoothness, with chocolate notes coming through.

Experimenting with the profiles, some shots of espresso were better than the defaults, while others were clearly worse. There are almost infinite settings to play with.

While some people prefer boilers on high-end machines, the WPM KD-310VPS’s quality thermoblock gave me consistent espresso temperatures pour-after-pour.

WPM KD-310VPS milk quality – Fine steaming and pouring

Steaming with the WPM KD-310VPS proved super-easy. It was quick to get a jug of milk up to temperature with the right amount of foam.

The dedicated thermoblocks mean you can steam milk at the same time as pouring your espresso.

WPM KD-310VPS maintenance – Easy to manage

Aside from cleaning out the drip tray, the WPM KD-310VPS doesn’t require much maintenance. You can use the cleaning mode with a tablet and disc to flush out the expresso system. Every few months, depending on the hardness of water in your area, the machine will also need to be descaled. There’s a programme for this and the manual offers guidance on how to do it.

Should you buy the WPM KD-310VPS?

A true coffee machine of beauty, the WPM KD-310VPS is an incredible bit of engineering, delivering fantastic results every time. It’s with the profiles and apps that this machine really comes to life, letting you fine-tune settings to an incredible level to get the results you want.

Yet, this also means the WPM KD-310VPS could end up being under-utilised by the majority. As such, a model on the best coffee machine list may be better. Unless you’re a coffee fan who likes to customise to the nth degree, the WPM KD-270S may be a better choice for most: it produces quality coffee and milk, but is a little easier to use – and almost half the price.